The old alleyways of Manama were once again lit up in colourful, festive lighting, glowing to the sound of joyous rhymes, merry tunes and beautifully recited verses of the Quran in celebration of Gergaoun.
The capital city came to life as thousands of people of all ages filled up its narrow streets and historical neighbourhoods, earlier this week, as they do every year during the full moon of Ramadan.
Gergaoun marks the birth of Prophet Mohammed’s first grandson, Hassan ibn Ali, and is a long-standing tradition observed for at least 700 years in Bahrain and nearby nations. On this special night, every year, each town and village in the country opens its doors and hearts to all who pass by.
Locals lined the streets near the Old Manama Suq on Monday evening distributing free food, drinks, sweets, presents and even small sums of money.
Children wearing traditional clothes performed songs expressing gratitude for the gifts they were about to receive. It was not long before they were opening their bags to receive the much-awaited confectionery treats.
Sat on the steps of her home in Makharga neighbourhood, Nada Hayat was handing out goodie bags to the excited children, who surrounded her waiting for their share of the sweets.
“The door to our house has been open for Gergaoun since forever,” the mother, who now lives in Jid Ali, told the GDN. As a girl, she would wait for the event with much anticipation every Ramadan, she added. “In the past, we would walk from one end of Manama to the other, from sunset all the way to late at night.” Elderly Manama resident Isa Al Shoala was also standing outside his house handing out coins to passers-by, from a small basket decorated with shiny green cloth dedicated for joyful ceremonies.
“When I was a kid, the atmosphere was amazing. It wasn’t just about money, and we roamed around everywhere,” he told the GDN, reminiscing about his childhood.
Meanwhile, historian Fuad AlShakar told the GDN that the moonlit celebration was described in the chronicles of the prolific 14th century Arab traveller, Ibn Battuta.
Nearly 700 years ago, the explorer witnessed Gergaoun during his journey to Medina, which he recorded in the Travels of Ibn Battuta.
“From my readings, the tradition started during the days of Prophet Mohammed, as he was overjoyed by the birth of his first grandchild,” stated the Bahraini historian.
“When it comes to these festivities, Manama is quite unique – nowhere in the country is Gergaoun celebrated like it is here.
“The capital city beautifully weaves together the religious and heritage aspects of the occasion.” Walking the alleys of Old Manama, the overlapping recitation of the Holy Quran and prayers from the speakers of nearby mosques and ma’atams could be clearly heard.
Among those in the chorus was Matam Bin Zabar, which was concluding its first khatma (reading the Quran from the beginning to the end) of the month. “On this night, we conclude the last page of the Holy Quran,” Murtadha Al Halwachi, who manages Matam Bin Zabar, told the GDN.
“We read the Quran all month long, and people sit inside to listen and repeat the verses with the reciter, and at the end there is free food. The ma’atam also organises a lot of events because it’s a very special occasion.”
Mr Al Halwachi highlighted the fact that Gergaoun is celebrated by Muslims everywhere, regardless of country or sect.
While shooting a short documentary of the occasion, the GDN team ran into former journalist Sara Najeeb, who was there with her daughter, sister and newborn niece.
“It’s a beautiful thing that these streets we celebrated in as kids are the same ones we take our children to, and we walk the same route with them,” said the media specialist from Manama.
“Thank God that Manama is maintaining and preserving these traditions.”
Bahrainis were not the only ones partaking in the festivities. Droves of expats flocked to Manama to join the festivities too, including 17-year-old Sehr Nasir.
The Indian teenager, who was born in Bahrain, told the GDN that she had been enjoying the festival for as long as she could remember. She was there with her mother, nephew and niece.
Outside of Manama, all of the archipelago’s town and villages were also part of the merrymaking.
Official events have been organised by the Governorates and the Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authorities, including in the Manama Suq.
The tradition is said to have begun when Prophet Mohammed’s daughter Fatima handed out coloured sugar cubes in celebration of her firstborn, Hasan.
It is often compared to Halloween when it comes to the dressing up and going door-to-door, but the two do not have much else in common.
Boys wearing traditional thobes, embroidered vests and hats came to the event, as well as girls wearing bukhnaq, a head-dress embellished with golden threads, and thobe nashal, a garment worn over their dress.
zainab@gdnmedia.bh
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