Another summer solstice was observed yesterday from the ancient Dilmunian settlement of Saar by a group of dedicated history lovers, marking the gathering’s 27th year in a row.
Around 30 people congregated in a temple in the heart of the 4,500-year-old archaeological site on the longest day of the year, theorised to be the day the people of Dilmun celebrated their new year.
Archaeologist Nabiel Al Shaikh believes that the people who lived in the area may have used the corner of the temple as a sundial to mark the solstice.
Old and new faces made their way to the Saar Archaeological Site, a mixture of expatriates and local enthusiasts of all ages.
A group of tour guides, all licensed by the Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authority, who all share a passion for Bahraini history and heritage, attended this year’s solstice as a group.
“I keep coming back every year because I learn something new every time,” Spanish-speaking guide Dannely Romano, with more than a decade of experience, told the GDN.
“Not only do you meet your friends here, you also make new friends,” the guide who hails from the Dominican Republic added.
“If someone’s interested in knowing more, you can encourage them to learn more, not just about this site but also about the whole history of Dilmun and Bahrain, which is unique and beautiful.”
She added that the Saar Archaeological Site is not often visited by tour groups, as the programmes are not organised in Bahrain but rather by the companies that handle the cruise ship visits.
Her colleague, Nadiuska Hall, a Spanish-British tour guide who has been in the business for 17 years, feels that the site is difficult to access despite its impressive nature.
Another tour guide, Abbas Alfaraj from Samaheej, told the GDN about his childhood in the coastal village and how familiar the ruins feel.
“I’m a fisherman and I grew up by the sea,” the Bahraini explained. “After we caught fish for the day, we would go to pray in a very old mosque, with walls similar to the ones in this temple.
“A new year celebration like this takes me back to Eid celebrations in the mosque. Being here reminds me that our ancestors were also people who were like us, and they lived lives that aren’t that different from ours.
“The reason I come to the Saar Archaeological Site regularly is because it reminds me of my childhood, among those same ruins.”
Meanwhile, Irish explorer and desert traveller Alan Morrissey came all the way from Riyadh to catch the solstice – his first time since the pandemic.
“I was first introduced to Mr Al Shaikh in 2008. We used to come virtually every year to attend it, and it was a big gathering in the early days,” the consultant reminisced.
“I remember there was TV coverage and media like the GDN. It might have been upwards of a 100 people, including academics from the university, bouncing around their thoughts, ideas and theories.
“Coming back here is like returning home – I always look forward to it. The summer heat comes and there isn’t much to do in the desert, so it’s an excuse to gather and see friends.”
The GDN reported in 2022 that it has become increasingly difficult to observe the alignment, since recently-constructed high-rise buildings now obstruct the horizon and cover the sun as it dips out of sight.
Mr Al Shaikh believes that the temple could have been dedicated to the Mesopotamian Sun god, Utu.
Standing in the same spot in July 1996, he had noticed the alignment and had to return the next summer solstice to make sure what he had witnessed. Even though he introduced the theory in 1998, there is little evidence to support it.
One objection raised by experts is that the solstice sun’s alignment with the corner of the temple is off by 10 degrees, but Mr Al Shaikh attributes the misalignment to the soft, shifting sands the settlement stands on.
The Saar Archaeological Site was covered by sand for nearly four millennia until it was discovered in 1977 and excavated by a British archaeological mission in the 1990s.
The site is home to a trove of impressively-constructed and well-preserved ancient structures, each from a different epoch.
Bahrain Authority of Culture and Antiquities director general of antiquities Dr Salman Al Mahari stated that the site is the country’s second most significant site after Qal’at Al Bahrain.
zainab@gdnmedia.bh
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