Few trouser trends divide opinion quite like the balloon pant, writes Lara Owen.
Last trending in the late Eighties and Nineties, perhaps better known then as ‘Hammer pant’, the baggy, voluminous and deliberately impractical-looking bottoms have come back into fashion.
The style has flooded fashion runways, being the defining silhouette in coming spring/summer collections for Chloé, Armani, Alaïa and more.
But while designers have embraced exaggerated proportions, many shoppers remain hesitant – unsure whether balloon trousers are chic or one wrong step away from a clown’s costume.
According to stylists, the difference lies entirely in the details. So, here’s how to get the balance right when styling balloon pants this season.
The biggest mistake people make with balloon pants is assuming the copious amounts of fabric can disguise your figure, and so getting the perfect size isn’t crucial. But in reality, the silhouette demands accuracy.
“The first rule is ensure the fit is correct,” says stylist to the stars Deborah Sheridan-Taylor. “Length is critical, the hem should hit at or just slightly above the ankle. Consider styles with a proper ankle cuff, rather than an elasticated gathered finish, which can take the look dangerously close to Aladdin territory.”
She notes that while the shape may feel unfamiliar, the payoff is worth it. “Get them right and they offer an elegant alternative to the ubiquitous wide-leg trouser, combining comfort with a genuinely dramatic silhouette.”
Luxury stylist Oriona Robb agrees that proportion is everything. “Balloon pants are all about well thought-out volume.
“The key is making sure the rest of the outfit feels controlled and streamlined so the silhouette looks fashion-forward rather than overwhelming.
“Paying attention to where the trousers sit on the waist is crucial too, because a mid-to-high rise instantly makes the volume feel more flattering and elongates the leg.”
Because balloon trousers exaggerate the lower half, the upper body needs to be more pared-back.
“Balloon trousers are trickier to style than wide-leg, or straight cuts, due to their unusual proportions,” says Sheridan-Taylor.
“In order to balance out the exaggerated balloon silhouette, layering close to the body, with knitwear, like a cashmere tank, or fitted tops worn with a cropped blazer, will help contrast the fluidity of the style.”
For a more relaxed approach, she suggests leaning into shape rather than stiffness.
“For a simpler casual approach try tucking a shirt into the waistband, but be sure to undo a few extra buttons, to elongate your upper body, creating a flattering inverted V-shape.”
Like Sheridan-Taylor notes, when outerwear enters the equation, length matters. “Cropped or waist-length jackets are a stylist’s favourite because they visually ‘cut’ the volume and highlight the waist,” Robb says. “If you prefer something longer, keep it structured and open so you still see definition underneath.”
And, shoes should anchor, not compete as footwear can either ground balloon pants or throw proportions off entirely.
Pointed shoes, however, can work brilliantly to compliment the relaxed silhouette.
“The visual line of a pointed heel instantly creates a sharper look, while also helping to elongate the leg,” says Sheridan-Taylor. “Ankle boots are also a great choice, as they meet the boot just at the right point.”
“Don’t be shy to explore chunkier platform style footwear,” she adds. “A chunkier trainer or sandal is a great way to anchor the billowing fabric.”
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