Several studies indicate that a recent change, which includes recycling and thrifting, along with an increasing value for eco-friendly materials and longer-lasting garments, has been observed especially among Gen Z.
As such, more and more small independent brands, as well as some mainstream marques have started using more recycled material in their manufacturing processes, even opting for natural fabrics, research indicates.
One such homegrown name that has been designed around the ethos of pure fabrics right from the start is Tarakeeb. Launched seven years ago by Indian expatriate and creative entrepreneur Kanika Subberwal from Riffa, Tarakeeb means ‘putting things together’ in Arabic and ‘idea’ or ‘technique’ in Hindi, and is revered among patrons for its sustainable fabrics including silk, linen and cotton.
The brand is set to officially launch its new line, Amira, this year, which specifically caters to a younger audience and features a range of ‘accessible’, ‘more wearable’ pieces, including some made in Bahrain.
The brand recently showcased its debut collection, comprising jackets, vests, shirts, trousers and shorts at the seventh edition of the London Fashion Day staged at Hyde Park – a dynamic UK fashion platform bringing together emerging designers, models and industry professionals under one roof.
“Amira retains the ethos of the pure fabrics – no synthetics – but has its own identity,” Kanika told GulfWeekly.
“Since launching Tarakeeb, I have seen a lot of interest from young people so I thought, why not do something for them,” she added.
The debut ensemble by Amira pays tribute to Bahrain with classic red and green jackets and a grey vest, tailored in the kingdom. The jackets have a minimalist aesthetic that make them versatile and the vest is a classic that has a timeless quality to it.
Top: (L) to (R) The grey vest handwoven in Bahrain, the green jacket made in the kingdom and the silk brocade trouser suits from the ensemble.
London-based analyst Saloni Subberwal, who has had a front-row seat to her mother Kanika bringing Tarakeeb alive, donned one of the jackets as she presented the collection at the fashion event.
“As a young founder, showcasing Amira at London Fashion Day was incredibly special because it reaffirmed something my mother and I have always valued deeply – the beauty of pure fabrics, thoughtful craftsmanship and quiet luxury rooted in timeless elegance,” the University College London graduate who now works at Boston Consulting Group noted.
“In a world of fast trends and mass produced luxury, it felt meaningful to present pieces that are handcrafted with individuality and intention, balancing structured and fluid silhouettes, with modern brocade detailing designed to move effortlessly from lunch to work to evening wear.
“Amira’s spring-summer vision is centred on soft cottons, modal, linen and silk tailored as understated yet striking pieces designed for a generation of women who want to feel elegant and impossible to overlook,” she remarked.
Elaborating further on the fabrics, Kanika said: “The red and green jackets are made from pure wool on the outside but have pure cotton inside, which seems to have grabbed a lot of attention because that makes them versatile even if the weather fluctuates. The cotton ribbed weave inside the jackets was handwoven in Bahrain by artisans from Bani Jamra village. The grey vest has linen on the outside and cotton inside.
“We also created pure silk brocade trouser suits and tailored a skirt and jacket – all very popular. We used khadi to make the shorts and jackets. The only fabric that we used that is not 100 per cent natural is a very interesting one called modal, which is made out of beech wood, and the reason that we used it is because it does not crush very easily. So at least for shirts people prefer that.”
Tarakeeb has had a longstanding collaboration with independent weavers from Bani Jamra – an endearing connection to the kingdom and its sartorial heritage. It incorporates the fabric weaving technique of the small village off Manama coast.
Some past designs have featured pieces inspired by traditional Bahraini Al Naqda art – a traditional embroidery with fine silver or gold threads (khoos) stitched onto fabrics.
“We create and sell the Indian version of it – Mukaish – which is usually is very thin and light. We make it thicker in our workshops, but we do those in India because here, so far, the mechanism to create larger pieces is not available. We stay as close to the core, but in our own way,” added the luxury brand strategist and creative leader with over 20 years of experience.
Mukaish is an ancient, delicate metal embroidery technique from Lucknow, India.
Tarakeeb represents a convergence of Bahrain’s creative landscape and a confluence of cross-cultural heritage. A quiet-luxury artisan brand, its debut collection Be Bahrain was launched in 2019 and subsequently displayed at the prestigious La Biennale de Paris.
&uuid=(email))